Visiting the Site of the Lisbon Massacre

I had never been to Portugal. But just a few months after writing a chapter in my soon-to-be-released book "They Took His Name in Vain" about a great tragedy that took place in Lisbon 500 years ago, I am here. And the story of the Portugal chapter was on my mind a couple of days ago as I went on a guided e-bike tour of the city. The hills here are reminiscent of cities like San Francisco, so normal biking is nearly impossible.

When my guide discovered I was a writer, he asked me what I was writing. I mentioned the chapter on Portugal, and his face grew somber. There was sadness and even embarrassment. Even though there were six other people, he rearranged the tour to make sure he could take me to the square where one of the massacres took place. We were going so fast that I kept forgetting to research exactly where it was.

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In the early 1500s, thousands of (forced) Jewish converts to Catholicism were massacred because one of them pointed out that what the people thought was a supernatural event on Easter Day 1506 was simply the way the sun was illuminating the cross inside the church. People don't like it when their prophetic signs are pointed out as not real (even today).

In this case, they murdered the man who pointed it out. Then, they murdered his brother. Then, drunk on murder, they killed thousands more Jews throughout the city. Within a few days, the king sent troops to restore order. King Manuel I punished the city, executed ringleaders, and had two Dominican friars burned. The convent was shut for a time.

The plaque reads: “1506-2006. In memory of the thousands of Jews, victims of intolerance and religious fanaticism, murdered in the massacre that began on 19 April 1506 in this square.” The Hebrew line carved along the base is Job 16:18: “O earth, do not cover my blood, and let my cry have no resting place.”

The square opposite St. Dominic Church in Lisbon. A major fire broke out on August 13, 1959. It gutted the roof and interior after the 1755 earthquake had already damaged the church. It was restored and reopened in 1994, but the fire and earthquake scars were deliberately left visible inside. It is believed by many locals that this was a deliberate decision so that no one will forget the massacre that took place there.

Lisbon is a massive city, and except for a humble e-bike tour guide, I likely would’ve missed it.